A quietly idyllic island in the Tyrrhenian Sea, Ischia offers a heartwarming dose of Italian beauty, spirit and hospitality, with a generous splash of nostalgia for the Italy of yesteryear.
Here, five-star hotels and luxurious thermal springs are juxtaposed with scenes of Italian grandmothers hanging out laundry, religious street parades, and kids strapped on the back of adults zooming by on Vespas.
Its unspoiled beaches have long been popular with Italians, but international visitors were more likely to be drawn to the glitzier shores of nearby Capri or the Amalfi Coast.
Ischia, however, still has something which its more polished neighbors perhaps lack. You don’t need to dig deep here to find the real Italy. Ischia is a little less manufactured, a little more in-your-face and ultimately, that little more authentic.
And now, finally, it’s having a moment.
The rise of what Italians call “the green island” has gone a little something like this. Firstly, its famous tufa rocks, narrow streets and bougainvillea-draped landscapes became one of the backdrops for Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, global bestsellers turned hit TV show.
Then came investment and the promise of bigger things to come when the luxury Pellicano Hotels group took over the island’s five-star Mezzatorre Hotel and Spa.
And finally there’s the new Ischia is More campaign, driven by a community of local hotels and businesses who are keen to revive the island’s fortunes after a tough two years for tourism.
Michele Sambaldi, the group’s president and Pellicano’s managing director, says it wants to position “Ischia as one of Italy’s most prestigious destinations while attracting and retaining the international jet-set.”
Here’s what the island has to offer, all year round.
Sunsets, views and thermal waters
The beauty of Ischia is that the landscape and traditions change from town to town, so you can have a different experience each time you visit.
Ischia Porto is hustle and bustle and the commercial heart, while nearby Ischia Ponte has an old-world vibe.
Casamicciola Terme sits on the northern coast and has the largest concentration of thermal springs, while Barano di Ischia is best known for Maronti beach, the island’s biggest.
Lacco Ameno, with its pretty marina, and Forio, with its picturesque old town, are perhaps two of the most charming towns.
The island has several not-to-be-missed sights, including the medieval Aragonese Castle which sits on its own volcanic rock formation accessed by footbridge.
This symbol of Ischia was a royal residence and, during the Renaissance, a hive of activity for artists and writers.
A guided tour through the rooms and gardens can be followed by a rest in the Terrazzo Café, with its views across the gulf of Naples.
For more vistas, the church of the Madonna del Soccorso in Forio is a whitewashed hilltop stunner with incredible sunset views.
Private sunset and even all-day boat tours can be arranged from most ports here and are a great way to orientate yourself with the island’s landscape, even while you have a dip in the crystalline waters.For swimming and real Italian summer vibes, a day at a beach club is a must. The Giardino Eden is a tranquil oasis where you can lunch with local dishes and then swim off the beach platforms with striking views of the Aragonese castle. And La Scannella Beach Club is everything you’d expect of an island beach set-up with three swimming pools and beach access from sun lounger decks literally suspended off the rock edge.
For breathtaking mountain and sea views, hikers will love the trek up Mount Epomeo, a reminder of the island’s volcanic past. And on the topic of history, the Villa Arbusto which houses the Pithecusa Archaeological Museum is worth a visit for its fascinating collection of Roman and Greek artifacts including, amphorae, ceramics and jewels.
Ischia has no shortage of gardens or thermal parks. The manicured botanical gardens of La Mortella were created by Susana Walton, wife of English composer William Walton, and are often home to events and concerts. Complete with exotic plants, views of the bay and a Zen garden it makes for a peaceful break at any time of year.
Also perfect for all seasons is a soak in the healing thermal springs, including the spa at Nitrodi Nymph Park, which claims to be the oldest in the world. For multiple pools, spa treatments and dining options, spend the day at either Negombo or Poseidon Gardens.
A gelato stroll might just be the best way to experience the picturesque former fishing village of Sant’Angelo. Closed off to cars, it’s a kaleidoscope of flowers, vines and white houses and importantly, has one of the best granitas at Enzo’s Kiosk.
